Shareef Hadid Jenkins, the Black nonbinary designer behind BoiPKG, highlighted this sentiment in their collection using bold colors and larger-than-life silhouettes. In this political environment, Jenkins said, they’re not holding back on their designs, which they see as a means of resistance.
“They’re trying so hard to get rid of us,” Jenkins said of conservative lawmakers’ policies regarding the Black and LGBTQ communities. “But it’s impossible, because no matter what, Black is in every color.”
That boldness was apparent in many of the models who walked the runway, including Jari Jones. Jones walked for Soid Studios, founded by designer Jose González, in a structured black gown, matching faux-fur coat and dramatic black-and-white makeup reminiscent of that worn by the band Kiss. She reflected what the night was about: existing unapologetically.
“I have chosen to be loved out loud. I have chosen to not dilute myself in a way that lets people digest me,” she said. “You don’t have to bend to get ahead in this world. You can absolutely be authentic and absolutely be genuine and still be successful.”
Fi Black, founder of fashion brand DykeMint, had some advice to offer queer folks during this politically turbulent time: “Marry your first love. Get your first divorce.”
Black and their wife, Lita Bacus, who now co-runs the brand, got engaged in March and tied the knot in April, all while designing and creating their Butches Contain Multitudes collection, which was on view Thursday. Their runway looks featured collaged elements, bright colors, vibrant beading and recycled regality.
“Butchness gives a different perspective of masculinity, like color and texture, and it’s dyke minted, minted by dykes. And so, with Butches Contain Multitudes, we have all of this storytelling through texture, color and composition. There’s no real through line, because it’s about finding the clothes and then seeing if we’re going to subvert this history or are we going to expand upon it,” Black said.
Bacus added, “Fashion is political. Queerness is political, and joy is political.”
